The Great Escape!

Last sunset over Dane-in-Shaw

It might have been a great idea, but it was probably the slowest escape on record! Our original plan was to stay moored up in the vicinity of Congleton until Heather had completed the rehab for her new knee.  Then, hopefully by the end of September, start heading south for the winter. A list of jobs had been compiled to keep Ian happy, one of which was to sort out why the engine had become so noisy. Ian arranged for an engineer to come out and assess the engine mounts, rubber blocks which support and cushion the engine against the keel. It turns out they were the original mounts; one had completely failed and the other three were on their way out which explained why the engine was so noisy. With new ones fitted the engine is so quiet, we keep thinking there’s something wrong with it!

Lowering water levels on Macclesfield Canal

Unfortunately, (or as usual!) the rest of our original plan fell through. With the continuing dry weather and lack of water, we received the inevitable text alert and email from CRT advising us to stock up on supplies, use any nearby facilities and move the boat off this lower end of the Macclesfield Canal before the end of the week. After that they were going to allow the water level to drop until it equalised to the height of the Trent and Mersey which it joins on to at Hardingswood Junction.

The Bone & Flint Mill at Etruria 1857

This was not good news. The previous day we’d taken a short cruise to refill the water tank and had already discovered that the current drop in the water level, of about 10 inches, was making it tricky to get through some of the bridge holes, (the canal is narrower and shallower under bridges) the loss of another 6 inches would have the boat stuck, sitting on the canal bed and probably tilted at some ridiculous angle making it impossible to either move or live on. We’d be stuck until sufficient rain had fallen to refill the canal and feeder reservoirs, probably around October or November time.

Hall Green Stop Lock

We needed to move the boat ASAP but we waited a couple of days for Heather to attend her first physio appointment. Then we were off, it was slow going and it took us 3 hours to crawl the 5 miles down to Hall Green Stop Lock. Ian had to put the boat into neutral as we passed under the bridges to stop the stern dragging on the bottom. We came past one boater who was well and truly aground and asked us to put some revs on as we went past in the hope that the drag of our wake would free his boat. Sadly, it didn’t work, and we left him scratching his head. If we’d tried to tow him free we’d probably have damaged his propeller and that’s not an expense you want.

Northern portal of Harecastle Tunnel

Mooring up just before the junction we were now on the summit level of the T&M and, without many water reserves, this section could also, eventually become too shallow to navigate. The next morning, we made an early start and were the only boat heading south through the Harecastle Tunnel. Needing some respite from the stress of the last week, we pulled over for a couple of nights at Westport Lake.  

Leaving the Summit Lock at Eturia
Leaving Cockshutts lock

With various rumours of the whole system being shut down, we decided to keep going and made our way through the Stoke Locks and were happily moored up near to Barlaston village. We’re now hearing news of marinas, such as Lyme View on the Peak Forest Canal, blocking up their entrances with stop planks in an attempt to preserve their water and keep their moored boats floating. As I type this, notifications are coming in of more closures, so the buzz on the towpath telegraph might not be wrong and the whole system could end up grinding to a halt. I wonder how far we’ll get!

Online map from CRT  of stoppages and advisories 22/08/2025

A Lazy May

Our hero, Hollie the motorhome on the Isle of Harris

It was time to get back to the boat, but our planned lazy May began with a  rather  expensive hiccup. After the trip to the Hebrides, Hollie the van/motorhome was due some serious TLC. Time for a full service and MOT plus new tyres and a look at the injectors that had caused some of the problems during our trip. We had intended being back on the boat the following day, but Hollie was proper poorly and was being kept at the garage. The poor mechanic couldn’t believe her engine even started, let alone had driven us the 1500 miles around Scotland. As Hollie is also our accommodation when we’re visiting our hometown, we ended up sleeping on a fold out bed for three nights in Grandma’s study while Hollie got fixed!

A corona of the Northern Lights over Cheshire

Eventually they let Hollie out with a caveat (come back if she’s struggling again) and we are hoping it was all a ruse to keep us in Congleton for a few extra days. The highlight of that extra time was spending an evening watching the Aurora Borealis in the back garden with our family.  Sadly, the colours weren’t strong enough for everyone to see but we could all spot the moving shapes and we agreed that I’m a bit bonkers. I get really excited when I see the lights dancing!

Bridge 68 on the T & M

Now we can finally make it back to the boat and it’s Heron’s turn for some TLC.  During June she’s going to be lifted out of the water, have her bottom washed (hull gritblasted) and a new black coating applied (2-pack epoxy – the boat version of an expensive waterproof!). The water tank is also going to get cleaned and painted with the same stuff, it’s only 17 years overdue! So, we are on a mission to get Heron to the boatyard by June 3rd. We could probably do the whole distance in four days as it’s only 44 miles and 26 locks but we have three weeks. So we’re taking our time and enjoying the scenery! We’re on stretches of canal that we’ve cruised many times before with very familiar locks, tunnels, bridges and pubs to mark our way. In fact, it was in this area, some 35 years ago, that we hired our first boat from Jannel Cruisers in Burton upon Trent and fell in love with narrow-boating and canals.

Armitage Tunnel

We’ve had a few days on Tixall Wide then headed south along the Trent & Mersey Canal (T&M) to Fradley junction. The only disaster so far has been to run out of coffee beans. This was quickly remedied by Ian and the dog doing a 2 mile round trip to the nearest convenience store. In all the time we’ve been boating, this is the first time that we’ve actually stopped and had a meal at The Swan at Fradley Junction. And despite how strange it sounds, Ian definitely recommends the chicken burger with curry sauce!

The infamous Swan pub at Fradley Junction

It’s been lovely to experience some dry weather. The hot sunny days have brought out the flowers; the May blossom is dusting the hedgerows with white snow and the yellow irises are reflecting sunlight onto the water. The whole place is bursting with new life, there are mallard ducklings, moorhen chicks and cygnets everywhere. Sammy and the Barefoot Boater have been for some longer walks, and in the evenings we’ve relaxed outside to the sounds of Song Thrushes having a sing off with the Blackbirds and watching the moths being chased by bats. Whilst in the cabin, the spiders (big scuttling things that watch you and drop down onto your legs) are planning a takeover of the boat. The wide grassy towpath has given us space to set up deck chairs and burn a few logs in the fire pit; me happily burning marshmallows and Ian sipping his favourite malt. I should admit it – I had some of his whisky too!. It is nice to be home, to be lazy and to stay “still” for a while before our next adventure begins!

An evening on the towpath

Time for Tixall

Bottle kilns beside the Caldon Canal

We were going to take our time heading south on the Trent & Mersey (T&M) to Great Haywood, but with the promise of a sunny Easter weekend, we opted to push on in the hope of getting a good spot at Tixall Wide before the Bank Holiday rush. As we headed into Stoke-on-Trent again, it’s always a joy to see these iconic bottle kilns. During the 19th century and at the height of production in the “Potteries”, there were over 2,000 of these kilns in Stoke. Sadly, these are two of the 47 left standing.  Many can be seen in the Longport conservation area and they are still used in Middleport Pottery, but this pair aren’t far from Milton China in Hanley.

Descending Top Lock at Etruria

Descending the Stoke Five Locks, we were fortunate to have help from a chap known as “Rob the Lock” who cycles along the tow path helping boaters through them. Apparently if you’re lucky enough to meet this gentleman he’ll also offer to help with shopping, water and laundry runs. He’s been doing this for 20 years, but despite this being our home area, this was our first meeting!

Heading past the former Joules Brewery in Stone

Heading south, we got to Stone, the site of 2 previous breakdowns. This time, we didn’t need to get the tiller welded back on. And the alternator didn’t give up. Success!

 

 

 

Back in February 2022, Tixall Wide was our first destination as liveaboard boaters  and we were hit by two storms during our stay. The muddy tow paths were horrendous, and the lake had a couple of potential breaches (small leaks), which we did photograph and report to CRT. So we were pleasantly surprised to discover that remedial work had been done and the complete length of the tow path from Great Haywood to Tixall Lock had been re-laid and new Armco (steel piling) inserted along the edge of the lake to prevent those scary little leaks.

The sun sets over crowded moorings alongside Tixall Wide

This was quite timely as the land around has become waterlogged over this winter and the adjacent pastures have been flooded for many months creating a new wetland. This has given me a chance to use my binoculars and spy out a few wading birds such as egrets and oyster catchers.

Dawn light across the adjacent wetland

As usual in the UK, the Spring weather has been rather mixed, but we are loving the occasional warmer days. We’ve opted for a longer stay here and Ian’s been off on his barefoot walks whilst I’ve been knitting, baking, reading and bird watching. It’s a hard life.

Easter Floating Market at Haywood Junction
Enjoying an alfresco lunch

 

 

Over the Easter weekend, there’s been a Floating Market down by Hayward junction of the T&M. This is always worth a visit, there was a lovely atmosphere and we HAD to stop by the cheese boats and a few of the crafty ones (including Snoot Loot selling boxes of dog treats). It was great to see children filling out quiz sheets and shuffling around the sellers looking for names of the boats and their wares. Lunch was freshly cooked stone baked pizza followed by coffee and cake at one of the café boats before the mile walk back to our boat.

A still morning on the water

It’s also been a time for reflection (pun intended) with some very dramatic sunrises and sunsets. Despite some spells of very wet weather, the sun has been resilient and we’ve soaked it up along with the birdsong and enjoyed chatting with the gongoozlers who wander along admiring the boats. Unfortunately we do have one visitor who’s not so friendly. There’s a young swan who attacks the side of the boat with his beak, the noise inside our steel home is rather loud and my only mode of retaliation is to wave the washing up brush at him through the duck hatch – I don’t think he’s getting the message and I probably look like a wild washer woman!! (Probably??? – nothing probable about it – Ian)

My nemesis

We have descended!

Descending the Wigan Flight

It seems a lifetime ago, but after nearly 4 months of repairs, at 12:00 noon on the 23rd February 2024, the padlocks were removed from the top lock of the Wigan Flight and we were part of the first group of boats to make the descent. We paired up with some new friends and spent 5 hours chugging slowly down the 21 locks before heading around the corner to do 2 more on the Leigh Branch. It was going dark as we pulled in beside Scotman’s Flash, but we were extremely relieved to get there.

Arriving late at Scotman’s Flash Country Park

Over the following days we pootled along the Bridgewater Canal and moored up close to Dunham Massey. With dry weather and open countryside around us, we relaxed back into cruising mode whilst the shadows of the hills of Lancashire slipped away into the distance.

Passing over the Manchester Ship Canal on the Barton Swing Aqueduct

At Dutton Stop Lock (which was overtopping both the top and bottom gates) we sent up a cheer as we left the Bridgewater and finally re-joined the Trent & Mersey Canal. Then I said “all we need now is a kingfisher “and gave a squeal of delight, as a streak of teal blue did a flypast. Perfect.

Dutton Dry Dock on the Trent & Mersey Canal

Heading on past the Anderton Boat Lift, we had another stoppage to get through at Middlewich. This was a planned replacement of some lock gates, the old ones having become too leaky after lasting 20 years. An impressive amount of time considering the battering that they take from the water and the boats.

Heading to the repaired Bottom Lock at Middlewich

After a few days of waiting, the sun came out and Spring arrived bringing blue skies and sunshine that was warm enough to dry off our mooring ropes (they have been wet, muddy, and rather heavy ever since leaving Skipton in December). We were now cruising in familiar territory along the plains of Cheshire, aiming for Wheelock Wharf where we moored up for a few days.

A favourite mooring near Crow’s Nest Bridge

A walk into Sandbach town led to the sights and sounds of the indoor market and a Makers market. The latter being held on the cobbles by the old Saxon Crosses. This market place is surrounded by historic buildings that give a certain atmosphere that just reeks of times past with wattle and daub timber-framed buildings with old brick and stone work.

Market Place in Sandbach
Saxon Crosses Sandbach
Makers Market Monsters

 

 

 

 

We have lots of memories of past family holidays in this area and it’s fascinating to see how places have changed even in the few months that we’ve been “up North”. Time waits for no one it seems, but then again, some views are timeless.

Capturing the Northern Lights over the Plains of Cheshire.

Long days

No blog posts for the last two nights. We have been doing some long days to make up some time, so evenings have been more about snoozing in the armchair than blogging.

Friday was mainly the Atherstone Flight on the Coventry Canal. Yesterday, was Fradley Junction, Great Hayward and the return to the Trent and Mersey, not as many locks but quite a few miles. Today was fairly frequent locks, and getting through a very busy Stone. We are now moored up just past Barlaston. We originally thought we might sample Neil Morrisey’s Plume of Feathers at Barlsaton. But we’ve decided to go with home-made lasagne instead, a far superior choice according to Chef Heather.

There have been a lot more boats about in the last few days. That has made the locks a bit easier, as there are usually more people around to help. Which is good, because Heather has been banned from getting off the boat since she completely messed her knee up at the top of the Atherstone flight.

Here is our pictorial record of the last 3 days.

Interesting Boats

Pedal Power – effectively a pedalo with sleeping accommodation

Modern narrowboat – steam powered

Another Heron

Don’t think this one has moved in a while

Interesting architecture

Obligatory Hartshill Yard Photo

Salt Bridge – not the usual brick bridge on T&M

                                                      

Sunsets – At Last

It Finally Rained

It finally rained on us today. Of course, it had to be when we got to the Booth Lane Locks. When I passed this way in June, that was the day that I got completely soaked at exactly the same location. Today’s rain was much less dramatic, but still wet.

A Fish and Chip Landmark
A Fish and Chip Landmark

We are slowly making our way back to Scholar Green. We left the Aqueduct Moorings this morning, aiming for the well known landmark of the Kings Lock Fish and Chip shop for lunch. This is (surprisingly) next to King’s Lock, the first lock heading south on the T&M from its junction with the Middlewich Branch.

 

 

Looking back from King's Lock
Looking back from King’s Lock

The weather brightened temporarily over lunch time. As we departed Middlewich, it looked enticingly sunny in front, but ominously cloudy behind. And those clouds eventually caught up with us at the Booth Lane Locks.

Good weather in front
Good weather in front

Ominous weather behind
Ominous weather behind

And now I feel the need for a rant. There is a new housing development near to the Booth Lane Locks. Their marketing makes significant use of images of the locks and the proximity of the canal, which is fair enough. But why call it Albion Lock? Really? Albion Lock only exists in some marketing person’s mind. It’s made up. They are trying to make an association with canalside living, trying to suggest some connection to the waterway. When in reality, they got the name wrong and the canal is the other side of a bust main road. Hardly canalside living. Rant over.

 

Poole Aqueduct and Nettles

Tidy Townfield Locks
Tidy Townfield Locks

Not a long distance travelled but today’s jaunt involved 7 more locks, turning onto our new home canal, the Poole Aqueduct and the most painful patch of nettles.

The first three locks of the day are a marked contrast to the last two yesterday. The 2 locks at Church Lawton are no longer true pairs, as the offside locks are both dilapidated and overgrown. These locks are positively tidy and neat in comparison. They run uphill to the, often busy, Red Bull Wharf.

They caught fish here
They caught fish here

The two pounds between these three locks, are often very shallow. Today was no exception. A deep drafted traditional tug, heading downhill to Middlewich for a boat gathering, ran aground trying to leave one of the locks. I wouldn’t moor there now, but this is another one of those random personal landmarks. When we were more innocent and less experienced, we moored in this pound and the kids managed to catch fish, despite the efforts of their father. We’ve got a picture somewhere t prove it.

Red Bull Wharf was busy, but just with boats going uphill. It’s a challenge because the service moorings mean only two boats can wait below the single lock. Today, by the time I went into the lock, there were 5 boats jockeying for position.

Red Bull Wharf
Red Bull Wharf

Limekiln Locks - offside is hard to get into
Limekiln Locks – offside is hard to get into

I was now following another single-hander. I helped him through. And he returned the favour at the pair of Limekiln Locks. He used the, already empty, offside lock. Whilst his boat was going up, he prepared the nearside lock. That was lucky for me, for two reasons. First, the offside lock is pretty challenging to get into. The space for manoeuvring is limited by the Poole Aqueduct, which is how the Macclesfield Canal crosses the T&M, but more that in a moment. I have messed this up many times. Second, the exit from the offside lock was partially blocked by a deceptive fallen tree. It looked pretty insubstantial, something you could just brush past. Unfortunately for my fellow single-hander, it proved to be reluctant to let him past, and when he finally managed it, it swiped most of the stuff off his roof.

So, whilst Heron was ascending, I decided to try to clear it away. But I was also seduced by its apparent flimsiness. Rather than getting the saw out and doing it properly, I started snapping off some of the branches. It was all going rather well, until I tried to snap a rather more unwilling branch. I had to strain harder, and then it gave way suddenly. My short flight backwards ended in a huge patch of nettles. A very soft, but very painful landing. I’m usually reasonably immune to the odd nettle sting, they usually fade wishing 30 minutes. But when your entire arm has been nettled, it turns out the pain can last much longer. And it can be much greater. That’ll teach me to be public spirited.

Going under Poole Aqueduct
Going under Poole Aqueduct

The Poole Aqueduct doesn’t look that impressive. Especially when compared to other junction/aqueduct combinations, where one canal leaves another and then crosses it shortly after. For example, the Hazlehurst Aqueduct, where the Leek Arm crosses over the main line of the Caldon Canal, is far more attractive. But I have always liked it. There is something unusually rewarding about passing over a canal aqueduct you just went under. It is also probable that it has associations with heading off on other canal adventures when we owned shares on boats based at Heritage in Scholar Green.

Poole Aqueduct - Macc over T&M
Poole Aqueduct – Macc over T&M

One of the things you notice about the canal around here. It has very rusty colour due to the iron ore leaching into the water in the Hardcastle Tunnel. A striking contrast with the green vegetation and blue skies.

Brown water - blue sky
Brown water – blue sky

Top of Cheshire Locks
Top of Cheshire Locks

After a short lunch stop and a quick dash to Tesco to replenish some of the boat stores I had used up in the last 4 weeks, we pressed through the last of the Cheshire Locks (although now in Staffordshire). Another little landmark with its hut between the two locks. For those heading north, perhaps having just braved the dramatic Hardcastle Tunnel, it signifies the start of that long descent down the paired locks. For me, it meant no more locks for this trip, not counting the Hall Green Stop Lock. I swapped locks with the Oatcake Boat. They were heading down to Middlewich for the boat gathering as well. Now I should explain, for the benefit of any unenlightened readers, these are proper oatcakes, the Stoke version of a tortilla wrap, not those small, dry, tasteless biscuits.

Hardings Wood Junction
Hardings Wood Junction

Immediately after the locks, it was time turn at Hardings Wood Junction. The turn was made more difficult because contractors had moored a work boat almost opposite the junction. I managed it, but only just. If Heron was a 70 footer, it wouldn’t have been possible.

This length of canal, passing over the Poole Aqueduct, is now considered the beginning of the Macc. Officially it is the Hall Green Branch of the T&M, which terminates at the Hall Green Stop Lock. This is a weird lock, it looks to be the wrong way round. It has a single gate, opening inward at the bottom, with double gates at the top. Usually it is the other way round. These days, the Macc is always higher water level than the T&M. But this wasn’t always the case, so the stop lock used to have two chambers to allow for this.  Subsidence meant it was necessary to permanently lower the level of T&M through the Hardcastle Tunnel, so the second chamber became unnecessary. The lock usually has a just a 6 inch fall. Today, it was over a foot. Looks like this was more due to low levels on the T&M than high water levels on the Macc.

Hall Green Stop Lock
Hall Green Stop Lock

I called in at Heritage Narrowboats, our new home moorings from Friday, to get diesel. Turns out, Tuesday is one of there turn around days, so had to jockey for position with one of their departing hire boats. It was also a chance to chat with the staff and pick out our berth.

The plan was then to chug along for 5 minutes to another favourite mooring spot, just before Ramsdell Hall. But some inconsiderate boater, who obviously didn’t know any better, had already moored there. There is just enough space for 2 boats, but I decided to go a little further and try the new (actually, over 10 years old) Little Moreton Hall visitor moorings. These were created to allow boaters to easily visit the famous half-timbered Tudor mansion. And then they realised that, whilst the footpath to the hall passes over the bridge by the moorings, there was no connection to the towpath. I did hear that to make the connection, the extremely short footpath they had to create, was briefly the UK’s most expensive when measured by the foot.

Well those moorings were full as well. But I knew you could moor just through the bridge, so that’s where we ended up. That’s the benefit of knowing a waterway so well.

Tomorrow, I head up to Congleton to say hello to parents. I will be moored up for a couple of days on that embankment I posted pictures of a couple of weeks ago.

 

Injuries and More Locks

We nearly had a sunset last night, but then the clouds got in the way. The mooring spot is a good one for sunsets, you can get a good reflection off the water. But you do need the clouds to cooperate.

Sunset?
Sunset?

This morning was about odd jobs, also known as avoiding the rain. I tightened the stern gland. There are more sophisticated ways of stopping water entering the boat through the hole for the propellor shaft, but Heron has a traditional stern gland. This is packed with PTFE coated wadding. It prevents a lot of water entering but it does wear away over time. When this happens you have to tighten up the stern gland to re-compress the wadding. I had noticed more water than usual last night. It’s not a problem, we have a automatic bilge pump which keeps the levels down. But I knew it was a job that needed doing. It was also time to check the gearbox oil level. It’s not a check that I do often, but I have been running the boat almost continuously for over 4 weeks. The oil level is important because Heron has a hydraulic PRM gearbox. Oil is the hydraulic fluid, so the gearbox won’t work without it. I had topped the oil up at the beginning of the trip, because the gearbox seemed to have some form of slow leak. Not disastrous, but worth keeping an eye on. Well, it seems to have enjoyed this period of continuous running. The levels were right where they should be.

I was going to mend the shorts that failed so spectacularly a week ago, but the dog needed playing with. When she’d lost yet another tennis ball, it was time for lunch.

Sam doesn't like the look of those clouds
Sam doesn’t like the look of those clouds

The rain slackened off in the afternoon, so we made a move. It did mean we wouldn’t get onto the Macclesfield today as I originally planned, but there are some reasonable moorings at Church Lawton. That is if they’re not too crowded. Of course as soon as we started, the clouds began to look a bit grim. At least that’s what Sam was thinking. And then it started to rain. We arrived the first locks of the day and that’s when I learned the consequences of stepping over a gap that was a bit too large, onto wet stonework whilst wearing the wrong footwear. Not seriously injured, just removed a patch of skin on my big toe and received an impressive shin graze. The major effect was more psychological. I was a bit shook up at the sharp reminder of the need to be more careful when boating single-handed.

Injuries
Injuries

Then it was back into the relentless sequence that is the Cheshire Locks.

Today, there is only a single traditional lock at Thurlwood Lock. Its companion had been affected by subsidence due to brine pumping and in the 1950s was replaced by an experimental steel lock, that could be jacked up and down to accommodate the subsidence. Very high tech. Unfortuanetly, it was unreliable and was slower to operate than the adjacent, traditional lock. As a result it was shunned by commercial boats and its maintenance was neglected. It was eventually demolished in 1988. Had it survived, it would probably have been given listed status by now.

Shortly after Thurlwood Lock, we passed a wharf used by one of CRT’s contractors. Usually it is very busy with boats, but today, there were just two barges. What was impressive was the array of old locks gates just casually piled up.

Gates and stuff
Gates and stuff

Snape's Aqueduct
Snape’s Aqueduct

Then round the corner to yet another one of my random personal landmark, Snape’s Aqueduct. Although why Severus Snape allowed such a minor waterway feature to be named after him, I don’t know. The Lawton Treble Locks and Halls Lock followed next. Four locks in quick succession, at least today there were some boats coming the other way, making working through them a little easier. I like the way these locks are nestled into the rolling countryside, you can never tell what’s going to be around the corner.

Halls Lock
Halls Lock

Church Lawton Locks
Church Lawton Locks

In this case, after a short breathing space, you come to the two Church Lawton Locks. In each of this pair of double locks, the right hand one (going up hill), is closed. They both look forlorn and unloved. One of them is, rather unnecessarily, padlocked. To prevent it collapsing completely, it has been braced with some steel bars. And the top end of the lock is completely overgrown. You couldn’t get a boat in there if you tried.

 

Superfluous Padlock
Superfluous Padlock

There is a lock in there somewhere
There is a lock in there somewhere

 

 

The other closed lock looks in a bit better condition. But still unusable.

Overgrown
Overgrown

Busy Church Lawton Moorings
Busy Church Lawton Moorings

The moorings after the lock were busy but I found a spot. And then, despite the relatively late hour, boat after boat passed us.

Tomorrow will be our last day on the T&M, we will be turning on to the Macclesfield at Hardings Wood Junction. But there are few more locks to do before then. And we have to pass under the Macclesfield Canal.

More about that tomorrow, if the weather allows.

 

A bit of a slog

I knew that today was going to be a bit of a slog. But that wasn’t truly going to start until later. We were moored, last night, somewhere near Paddy’s Wood, just short of Wheelock. This is another very familiar part of the canal network. That’s why I know there is another one of those random personal landmarks on the way into Wheelock. It’s the spot where another boater told us that you could moor overnight and watch badgers. The kids were massively interested in badgers, having seen the ones that visit my mum and dad’s back garden. So we moored at the spot. It was obvious. You could see several sets by the characteristic spray of sandy soil from the entrances. We watched. We didn’t see anything! The badger sets are still there. Still very clear to see. But I don’t think they will be there for long. You see, the field behind is yet another place where they are building more new houses.

Custom Ford
Custom Ford

The dog and I pulled in at Wheelock to offload some rubbish and admire this souped up old Ford that was parked there. I would have got her some more treats, but the pet food superstore just next to the canal doesn’t open on Sundays.

Having just passed the last possible place to moor  in Wheelock, that was the point when I noticed the dark, ominous clouds. Too late.

Ominous
Ominous

Sheltering before the slog
Sheltering before the slog

Just round the corner is the bottom of the Wheelock flight. This is the start of the Cheshire Locks, also known as Heartbreak Hill. Most of the locks between here and Hardings Wood Junction are double locks. These pairs of locks helped to improve throughput through this heavily locked length. The slog would have begun immediately, but it started raining. So we sheltered for a while under a road bridge waiting for it to stop. It didn’t stop, but it wasn’t proper rain, not like yesterday, so we carried on.

Cheshire Locks - doubles
Cheshire Locks – doubles

The bottom few pounds (spaces between locks) were very low. It was actually quite difficult to get into and out of the locks. At the bottom of one lock, I couldn’t even get Heron all the way into the bank. The situation improved as we ascended through Malkins Bank, a community that only exists because of the canal.

Lonely Bridge
Lonely Bridge

The canal then crosses an open field and under a solitary, lonely bridge. It is painted white, well usually, it looks like it needs a repaint right now. This is one of my canal landmarks that you can spot when screaming past on the M6. It’s easier to spot if you are heading north. If you are heading south, you can just glimpse the next pair of locks.

Thundering Sunday M6
Thundering Sunday M6

The canal then passes Hassall Green. By lock 57, there used to be a rather nice cafe. We’ve had everything from meals to ice creams from there. It is no more. It’s been converted to a house, and looks to have been on the market for most of this year. Sounds like they were asking too much money for it. Or perhaps it’s all the worries about the EU Referendum?

Hassall Green was also the location for the Romping Donkey. It was only a short walk from the canal and did a mean Sunday carvery. Apparently it had been closed for a few years, then they were doing some renovations and managed to demolish part of the listed structure. Now it seems it’s in limbo. Viewed from the canal, it looks like quite a bit of it has gone. I wouldn’t be too hopeful about it re-opening.

Pierpoint Locks, splendid isolation
Pierpoint Locks, splendid isolation

Deep locks, in the rain
Deep locks, in the rain

The Pierpoint Locks appear to be in splendid isolation, despite being only a short distance away from the M6. This pair of single locks were the last two for the day. We had only done 12 locks. But they are all deep and most of them were set against us. Climbing the ladders out of these deep locks is hard work, especially in the rain. Only 12 locks, but still a bit of a slog.

The only problem with where we are moored now is these intimidating cows. They are freaking Sam out, standing there staring at her intently.

 

Another favourite spot
Another favourite spot

Intimidating cows
Intimidating cows

Misty Morning & Proper Rain

Today, it rained. No I mean it really rained, proper rain. But we’ll get to that later.

 

Misty morning
Misty morning

I woke to a misty morning. It was also a little cooler. Decided to get a reasonable early start. I needed to do some shopping in Middlewich for fresh stuff. Getting on to the visitor moorings in Middlewich can sometimes be a challenge. They can often be full. So getting there by late morning would maximise chances of getting a spot.

Former stables
Former stables

It’s a gentle cruise past yet another one of those random personal landmarks. Yes, we are back on familiar territory. At Weaver Bank there are some former canal horse stables that have been converted for residential use. I have never quite worked out whether it it one dwelling or several. If it is several, they are pretty small. Perhaps they are for holiday lets?

Soon after the stables, we passed another formal mooring spot. The ground falls away very steeply into the valley, giving you impressive views down over Top Flash on the River Weaver.  We’ve never moored there, but we really will have to try it soon. The only problem is, it looks popular.

Top Flash
Top Flash

They're all deep
They’re all deep

Before getting to Middlewich, we had to negotiate Stanthorne Lock. The CRT Volunteers were out in force, with 3 of them already at the lock and a boat load just arriving below. This was a working party intending to repaint the lock. It certainly looked like it needed it. But by now it hadn’t started to rain. This wasn’t proper rain. It only lasted 10 minutes. Just long enough for them to work me through the lock. Thanks! The locks on the Middlewich Branch are all pretty deep, and this one leaks quite a lot.

I pulled in at Middlewich before Wardle Lock, and did the necessary shopping. Then I took advantage of being close to one of the best canal side Fish and Chip shops around. A bit of an indulgence, but they don’t do pudding and chips in the south. Heathens!

After lunch, I sat there for a few minutes trying to decide whether to stay there or to push on. The Middlewich visitor moorings are OK for urban moorings, but it was sunny, so I decided to go. That turned out to be a bad mistake, but not immediately.

Helpful volunteers
Helpful volunteers

First we went through Wardle Lock, again helped by volunteers who were actually painting (not for long). There is a plaque next to the lock to commemorate Maureen Shaw, who lived in the lock cottage. She would often be seen leaning on her fence, acting as an unofficial lock keeper, giving passing boaters advice. As she lived most of her working life on canal boats, she knew what she was talking about.

The tiny section of canal below the lock, but before the junction bridge used to be known as the Wardle Canal. Exorbitant fees were charged for boats to transit the Wardle Canal. All part of the rampant competition between canal companies. This junction is often really busy. Today wasn’t any different. Boats coming north and south, and one taking on water by the junction. Having just descended Wardle Lock, now heading south on the T&M, I had to ascend Kings Lock. As the chip shop is right next door, you get some enticing aromas at lunchtime. Not a problem for me as I had already indulged.

Kings Lock
Kings Lock

Ominous
Ominous

Now, the clouds started to look quite ominous. Of course, now I was on a section of canal that you don’t really want to moor on. It’s right next to a main road. I was now committed. And now it really started to rain. I started to get quite wet, so the phone and camera got put away, so no pictures of this deluge. It was the sort of proper rain that made you wish you’d put shorts on because its easier to dry skin than it is to dry clothes. It was the sort of proper rain that makes you stop bothering with the umbrella because you’re so wet it isn’t worth it. It was the sort of proper rain that soaks through everything except your underpants. And then it rained even harder, so hard that you need the umbrella again just to see what you’re doing. It rained so hard that Sam the roof dog begged to be let back inside the boat. And every time you thought it was going to stop, it didn’t. It did let up briefly at Crow’s Nest Lock so I could take this sad photo.

And then the hardest rain came down just as I was leaving the lock. I needed to get another half mile down to get to a reasonable place to moor.

Of course, as soon as I pulled over, the rain stopped.

Rain stopped
Rain stopped