On the Leicester Line

Approaching Leicester with view of the Space Centre

During March, we headed along the Trent, Soar and Wreake to join the Leicester Line of the Grand Union Canal (GUC). We passed through our old university town of Loughborough, stopping only to top up with groceries and use the services in the basin. We then cruised on to Leicester, where we pulled over at Castle Gardens. This secure pontoon mooring in the city centre is a great opportunity to catch a film at the cinema and pick up a takeaway. Moving on, we went through more industrial areas and were  impressed by the murals that adorned the walls facing the canal (it’s a bit like marmite – you either love it or hate it). Seeing these long stretches of colourful graffiti made me wonder how tall some of the artists were and we hypothesised about the use of ladders vs cans with triggers on poles!

Skirting around South Wigston, the navigation provided us with a trip down memory lane as we used to live within a mile of this stretch. In 1988 (yes, that is a little while ago!), our first marital home was a rented flat above a chemist overlooking the inner ring road, quite a contrast to our current floating residence. It was close to the local school where I did my probationary year as a primary school teacher and Ian would drive his Peugeot 104 to work at Rank Taylor Hobson (of Rank Film fame) as a Research & Systems Engineer. On Google Street View the chemist is now a kebab shop with a store room above it.

May blossom around Blue Bank Lock
King’s Lock Tearooms

We lived in Leicester until 1993, and I even recall doing jury service at the crown court, which was quite an experience, especially as I ended up drawing the short straw by being the Foreman of the Jury (and no, it wasn’t anything newsworthy!). We did cruise around here as a young family on our first share boat, but that must still be over two decades ago, and it is great to see the regeneration that has taken place during those intervening years.

Managed to capture some ice creams on the way past

Getting back out into the countryside is quite a treat after all those buildings, but unfortunately we ran into a little boat trouble. No, the tiller didn’t fall off this time,  the throttle cable snapped as we were manoeuvring into the last lock of the day at Newton Top Lock. Luckily, as the gear cable was still intact, we could limp out of the lock on tick over. We then spent the night moored opposite a nesting swan, waiting for the River Canal Rescue (RCR), the waterways version of a break down service, to find us and repair the damage.

Volunteers waiting at Kilby Bridge Services for the Campaign boats

Earlier, when we stopped at Kilby Bridge for water we heard that there was a flotilla of boats following us. That evening, they caught up with us. The Fund Britain’s Waterways Campaign Cruise for 2025  are running several cruises throughout the year and you can follow their journeys on their Facebook group – Fund Britain’s Waterways – Cruises for 2025 . They’re heading to London to sail past the Houses of Parliament and raise awareness of how the cuts to the government funding are affecting this national treasure.

A pair of the boats from the flotilla heading to London
Waiting to go up Foxton Locks

Thankfully the sun continued to shine, Dan from RCR did the fix and we headed on to Foxton Locks. Apparently with a height rise of 75ft (23m), these are said to be the longest staircase locks in the world and get 400,000 visitors every year. According to one of the lock keepers, they’ve had as many as 40 boats pass through in a single day. When it is that busy, this is usually achieved with a system of 4 up and 4 down. We were fairly lucky and only had to wait for one set of descending boats, but if the queues are long you can be waiting for hours.

Looking back down at the first two locks

Normally it would take us 2 1/2 hours to pass through 10 individual locks, but we did these in just under an hour. Admittedly we had help from some gongoozlers and their grandchildren, but it was all managed at a steady pace, and at the top, the children were given certificates by the real Lock Keepers for being brilliant lockies. 

View of half way up Foxton
The remains of the Foxton Boat Lift with canal below

We moored up at the top and wandered over to grab an ice cream (resistance is futile). Then we went to see the remains of the Inclined Boat Lift.  This engineering marvel was built to allow wider working boats to transition the hill and used a pair of caissons, cables, pulleys and a steam engine to simultaneously move either two narrow boats or one barge  up and down the hill in 12 minutes. Each tank was full of water and weighed 230 tons with or without a boat. The gradient was 1 in 4.  Unfortunately the boat lift only lasted for 11 years as it proved to be uneconomical to maintain and in 1928 it was sold for scrap metal. 

There are no more locks for us for a while as we’re heading to a marina to abandon the boat for a few weeks.  We’re jumping ship onto Hollie the motorhome for our next adventure. Let’s hope this beautiful weather holds for us!

A chilly dawn on the GUC

Hurrah! We’re on the move again

Ian, far left with drummer Ian Mosely and Marillion on stage for three nights of concerts

We’re back onboard after a rather fabulous time in Port Zelande, Holland, celebrating the music of our favourite band-Marillion. Yes, that’s the prog rock group that formed in 1979. No, their singer isn’t called Fish, he left the band in the 80’s, the new lead singer (for the last 36 years) is Steve Hogarth. Out of the blue, Ian was called up on stage to take part in a quiz with his namesake, unfortunately drummer Ian Mosley wasn’t happy that this Ian is a bass guitarist!

Restocking for our next adventure

Back in Staffordshire, we had a large grocery delivery before leaving Great Haywood Marina to start our big cruising adventure for this year. As we approached the first lock we were treated to the sight of a traditional working boat and I had to admire the panel work. Butty “Ethel” has an iron hull and no engine, she was manufactured in 1930 by Yarwoods and like many boats (including ours) has been renamed a few times: Fern, Elizabeth and Rat. She was originally built for The London, Midland & Scottish Railway Company (LMS). That, despite being primarily one of the “Big Four” railway companies of the early 20th Century, they also owned 543 miles of canal, 8,950 horses, 64 steamboats and 27 docks! Ethel was an LMS station butty, designed to be towed and pulled around a basin transfering cargo from the canal to the railway.

LMS Station Butty Ethel, moored above Haywood Lock.
Beautiful panel work on Ethel

Ian has been busy keeping our boat running smoothly too; he’s upgraded the LED ceiling lights, renewed water filters and serviced the engine. We made a pit stop by a wood to restock with bags of kindling and logs. The temperatures are still getting low at night, around 0 degC (32 degF) but warming up to 13 degC (55 degF) in the daytime, so a glowing fire in the mornings and the evenings is still mandatory as far as I’m concerned!

Sunset in Great Haywood Marina

We do check the weather forecast for sunny days. This is one huge advantage of being retired liveaboards, you can pick the fair-weather days to do your cruising. And as Spring has sprung, there are flowers smiling from the tow path and even the cherry blossom is in full bloom – it’s at least 4-6 weeks early. I can’t deny that I’m loving the warm sunshine, (although with some apprehension as this is being blamed on climate change). For me, all this sunshine feels like a huge release and a joy, I can see the colours of the countryside bouncing back at me instead of being greyed out by the winter sun.

Cows in the canal at Colwich

We are on the same route that we followed last May when we took the boat to get blacked at Redhill Marina near to Long Eaton. This time we’re not in such a rush and plan to stop in Burton on Trent for a few days and that means we have to navigate a short section of the River Trent. We are making steady progress because, thankfully, the water levels are all looking normal, unlike last year when we had to wait for a flood to recede. 

Looking back at Colwich Lock

We do have some favourite views along this stretch. Colwich Lock is really pretty but nothing beats going down the 5 locks at Fradley Junction and pulling in at the Laughing Duck Café for an ice cream. We picked a weekday for Fradley as we know from past experience it can be a nightmare at the weekends especially as there are a few marinas in this area and when the sun shines, the leisure boaters tend to pop out for a long weekend and this junction with the Coventry Canal can be busy.

Fradley Junction
Brand-new gates on the top lock at Fradley Junction (it was worth the wait)

The freezer is full of home-cooked meals, the boat is ticking along nicely and we’ve already done 30 of the 150 lock/miles to our next destination. But where is that? Guesses in the comments 😀. 

Arriving in Burton on Trent

Slowly does it

Blue skies and rainbows at Tixall Wide

We’ve arrived at our last mooring spot before we “abandon” the boat in a marina again to head off to the Netherlands for the Marillion Weekend. It’s another old favourite, Tixall Wide. It’s that “pretend lake” near to Shugborough Hall, a mile down the Staffordshire & Worcester Canal from the junction at Great Haywood. We’re still taking our time. In the past we’ve made the cruise from Congleton to Tixall in 2 days – this time we took 49!! But we did stop at Barlaston and visit Neil Morrisey’s The Plume of Feathers pub (no we didn’t see him)

Passing a perfect private mooring at Barlaston

We spent a couple of weeks hovering around Stone running errands, taking advantage of the local amenities including the swimming pool, laundrette and take-away pizza! It’s been a rather grey and dull start to the year, so catching glimpses of the sun in the last couple of weeks has really cheered the soul. The railway station and many of the shops in Stone have a curiously gothic style which seems a little out of place. It turns out that they were designed by Sir Henry Arthur Hunt, a surveyor who worked for the North Staffordshire Railway Company. Earlier in his career, after the Houses of Parliament burnt down in 1834, he was commissioned by Charles Barry to provide the design estimate for rebuilding the Palaces of Westminster (very gothic). Hunt suggested a construction time of six years with an estimated cost of £724,986. It actually took 30 years and cost over £2 million, oops!

The iconic Joules Brewery in Stone
  The unique Stone Railway Station 1849, designed by Sir Henry Arthur Hunt.
Mind the gap but love the detail

Winter stoppages are still hindering us from making further progress south. There are currently 174 closures, restrictions or advisories along the 2,000 miles of waterways that the Canal & River Trust are maintaining. The last stoppages for us are the repairs to Woodend and Shadehouse Locks. They are preventing us from getting to Fradley Junction, but this should be (fingers crossed) completed by mid-March. The CRT contractors and volunteers have been busy trimming back hedges and trees along the tow paths and the offside of the canal. Some of this has been essential because of fallen debris from the recent storms which has blocked the waterway and footpaths. We’ve spent days happily scavenging for wood to restock our supplies whilst daydreaming and scheming about the rest of the year. We still aim to spend most of this summer chugging towards London and then on to the previous home territory of the Kennet & Avon in the direction of Bath and possibly Bristol.

Our trusty trolley for shopping and laundry

We are keeping ourselves busy.  Ian finished his interior decorating (it looks much brighter in here), chopped wood and serviced the multi-fuel stove. I’ve rediscovered the joys of baking and needlework; the boat is often littered with colourful cut threads and the smell of cakes, naughty but nice. We’ve been liveaboards for three years and whilst it feels perfectly natural for us to be living like this, I can’t believe how quickly the time has flown by.

Replacing the rope seals on the stove 
Keeping warm and busy

Living in a very small space means we’re very tight on storage space. We’ve have had a few goes at decluttering our stuff. Minimalist living, weirdly, doesn’t get in the way of a comfortable life. This might seem backwards, but it’s oddly liberating. You just don’t have room for anything that isn’t either essential or extremely precious. It makes you realise how little you really need. During the winter, the fire is always burning, keeping the boat toasty, but the cold surfaces along the inside of the hull can cause condensation, and damp can develop inside cupboards and at the back of shelves. It’s so easy to overstuff a hidey-hole and then sadly suffer the consequences. This wouldn’t happen in a newer boat with spray foam insulation, but Heron is now 28 years old, and we think her rock wool insulation has started to sag a little behind the panelling. We just need to be careful and keep on decluttering.

So as much as we are enjoying the rest, we are missing the warmth and sunshine of the Caribbean. We can’t wait to get going and then these grey days will be a distant memory! Bring on the sunshine and the summer.

A stunning sunrise near to Weston on T&M

A Chilly Escape to the Trent & Mersey

Moored up on T & M Canal beside Westport Lake, Stoke on Trent

It’s been a very wet and cold start to 2025. We are on a safe mooring in Stoke-on-Trent and thankful for the peace of mind that comes with that. Our hearts truly go out to everyone who’s been affected by the recent floods around the UK. It’s a been a huge reality check for us; whilst we always do our homework when choosing a waterway to live on for a period of time, things can happen that are just beyond your control. It has been heartbreaking to see the recent breach on the Bridgewater Canal. During the previous couple of years we have moored in the exact spot where the canal has collapsed and we recognise some the boats that are stranded there. 

Coffer dam now in place on Macclesfield Canal

At the start of January, we were actually more concerned with being frozen in on the Macclesfield and not getting past a planned stoppage. So having seen the weather forecast, we brought our plans forward a bit. We had a frantic day getting the boat past the location of the planned stoppage, before waiting for our booked southbound passage through Telford’s Harecastle Tunnel. With a maximum width of 8ft (244cm) and a height restriction of 7ft 7inches (231cm) it’s quite narrow and claustrophobic. It’s about 1.6miles (2.67km) long and takes about 40 minutes to pass though. We used to think you have to let your fire go out before you’re allowed in as the air circulation is so poor and there’s a potential risk of fire if gas accumulates. When it’s this cold it can take ages to get the boat warmed up again, so it was a huge relief to discover, a couple of years ago, that the fire could stay in, just with no active flames.

Waiting at the north entrance of Harecastle Tunnel

Now we’re moored up by Westport Lake in Stoke-on-Trent on the Trent & Mersey Canal and biding our time whilst some stoppages ahead of us are being completed, so what to do to pass the time? Decorate the boat of course!! We have prepared for this activity but not been overly keen to start it. The plan is actually to make the whole of the inside of the boat to feel lighter and brighter by painting the ceiling panels and the upper half of the walls with an off-white emulsion (it’s quite trendy apparently!). 

   

This is the first time that we’ve attempted any type of interior decorating on the boat and a few extra problems are evident. For starters, we’ve chosen to begin in the worst area possible, the bathroom (yes, it is the size of a wardrobe). As the boat is jam packed with all our worldly goods, there’s nowhere to put the stuff from the section that you’re decorating, the angles of the walls are awkward and, if there’s someone else moving around the boat (and that includes the dog) then doing a straight edge when the boat suddenly wobbles is challenging! Hopefully the rest of the boat will be less stressful. At least the loo will always be available!

Sammy keeping her bum warm!
Frozen in

 

 

 

 

 

 

The outside temperatures have been dropping to -8 Celsius (17.6 Fahrenheit) at night. So we’re currently iced in and the ice is too thick to break! When we move around the boat the ice sheet creaks and scrapes against the hull. The noise is freaking the poor dog out and she’s clinging to our legs. To be honest she’s getting older and not keen on having cold paws either, so after a wander around the lake we got all tucked up by the fire and watched the latest Wallace & Gromit film, Vengence Most Fowl. No spoilers, but we do love the familiar locations (especially if you like the Llangollen Canal) and the “high speed” chase at the end is hilarious!

Spot the white swans on the frozen lake!
Walks around the lake

Home for Christmas 2024

Narrowboat Christmas Tree
Santa trying to get a grip 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So that’s it, we’ve done our last trip to the bottom of Bosley Locks. We have turned the boat, and our next destination is a mooring in Congleton for the festive period. There are plenty of plans in the air for next year but only one is set and that’s a fly-cruise to celebrate Heather’s significant birthday in December, so anything could happen between now and then!! So I thought I’d do a snapshot from our adventures this year as we wind up 2024

January -Passing by Burnley Wharf on Leeds & Liverpool Canal
February- Crossing the Manchester Ship Canal on the Barton Swing Bridge
March-The Barefoot Boater at Tixall Wide

We have spent the last few days meeting up with the fuel boat (again) for a delivery of diesel and coal. Yes, well, it was actually a van, so technically not the boat. The boat based at Bollington Wharf, is above the 12 Bosley Locks and their sister boat, based on the Four Counties, is usually blocked by stoppages at this time of year, so they use a van for deliveries on the lower Macc in winter. To help, we have to moor up where there’s easy access to a road. Not as iconic in style but far more efficient on time and labour than the return journey for the fuel boat.

April- Old Man of Storr, Isle of Skye
May – Congleton, Cheshire-watching the Northern Lights with family in the back garden
June- Cruising in the Med on P&O Azura

Whilst moored up in Congleton and for the first couple of weeks of cruising in January we’re not going to be able to source wood along the towpath, so we’ve been out foraging for firewood to keep us going for about a month and the store in the bow is chock-a-block full. To the point that someone has pointedly banned me from picking up any more sticks from the towpath!

July- Cockshute’s Lock, Trent & Mersey Canal, Stoke-on-Trent
August- Mow Cop, Staffordshire: Walk up from Macclesfield Canal
September- Highgate Howe, Whitby

 

October- Northern Lights from Benar Beach, North Wales

 

November – Jolly Beach, Antigua from Transatlantic Cruise on P&O Britannia


Our stove is doing a grand job of keeping us warm, but I will confess to missing the warmth and the blue skies of the Caribbean and the salty, warm, turquoise waters of Jolly Bay. This winter seems to be a very grey one; cloudy, windy and wet so I’m enjoying spotting the buds on the trees and the snowdrops that have already started showing their faces. All reminding us that Spring isn’t too far away and hopefully some sunshine too.

December- winter cruising on the Macclesfield Canal

Meanwhile it’s time to focus on the festive season and get back in touch with friends and family. Time to enjoy each other’s company and tell tales (mostly true – perhaps a little exaggerated for effect!!) of this year’s adventures. 2025 will see us heading south to London via the Grand Union and then, hopefully, eventually, to Bristol Harbour via the Kennet and Avon Canal. And somewhere along the way, Heather is hoping to finally get her right knee replaced!

Macclesfield Canal, Reflecting on the year


So this is a BIG thank you to all of you who follow our travels and read the blogs (especially those who are kind enough to leave a comment). We hope you all have a Very Merry Christmas and a Happy and Healthy 2025.

Season’s Greetings from Narrowboat Heron

Winter on the Maccy

Mooring beside the decorative railings of Ramsdell Hall

It’s a stunning time of year with low beams of sunlight cutting through the trees and periods of snow and frost carpeting the countryside like a quilt. The Maccy (Macclesfield Canal) is an easy stretch to find moorings on for the winter season, it doesn’t flood and we’re always within a couple of miles of shops. But it’s not without its hazards!

The fuel filled bow

As winter approaches we close the bow of the boat with the cratch covers, turning it into a fuel storage area. We start with 10 bags of coal and then look for places to moor where we can go scavenging for wood along the tow path. In fact, this year there seems to be a lot of tree trimming going on, so we have lots to choose from and Ian has completely burnt out the motor on his rechargeable chainsaw! And having spotted another boater with a folding sawhorse, he’s now acquired one and really enjoys not having a bad back after a session of wood chopping (and I’m glad that the cold has encouraged him to wear boots when he’s sawing!!)

The smokey chimney creates a challenge for the helm

Having a fire lit all the time does cause a few problems when you’re cruising. Whilst I love the sweet smell and happy memories conjured up by burning wood, coal smoke (ironically it is smokeless fuel) is not as pleasant and catches in your throat. Wet coal and slightly damp wood causes clouds of fluffy white smoke to billow across the front of the boat which the helmsman then blames for the bumps as we pass through narrow stone bridge holes. Other challenges include the low winter sun blinding you as you turn the boat, strong side-on winds holding the boat against the canal bank and trees dropping snow on to you as you cruise underneath them. It’s all good fun and part of life on board in the winter (especially for those of us without the luxury of bow thrusters on our boats!)

  Offside of canal and the wall of Oakes Mill
Cuddlies hiding in the pipe of Oakes Mill

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One benefit of cruising up and down the same stretch of waterway is that you get time to spot little oddities. Below Hightown there is a large pipe sticking out from the side of a mill which is almost completely inaccessible. Someone has gone to a lot of trouble to stick two cuddly toys into it, and I’m completely stumped by why you would go to such trouble.

This feature protects the embankment (just ahead) from flooding

Another unusual feature is a large runoff near to the Dane-in-Shaw embankment. This is normally covered in weeds, but for the first time in many years it’s been cleared and shows what a huge and quite dramatic structure it really is.

Congleton Wharf (One of my Dad’s favourite spots)

After taking advantage of another easy mooring at Congleton Wharf, we ambled down Canal Street for the switch on of the Christmas Lights. It was fabulous to see so many people enjoying the event and the Christmas market was buzzing with the sounds of buskers and busy shoppers.

Shoppers enjoying the Christmas market
Walking Christmas trees by the town’s tree

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The recent wintery weather might be a bit slippery underfoot and cause the mooring ropes to freeze, but it has certainly helped to get everyone into a seasonal mood.

A beautiful, but cold, wintery cruise

 

Leaky bottoms on the Maccy

Grey skies with autumnal trees

No more blue skies for us and daytime temperatures over 20 degrees lower, we’re back in Cheshire. We spent a couple of days in Lyme View Marina doing laundry, getting over jet lag and reacclimatising before we then headed back out onto the cut.

Temporary repair to leaking sluice
Patched up leaking culvert

 

 

 

 

 

I don’t think we’ve ever seen the Macclesfield Canal so busy. The summit pound seems far more popular than we’ve seen it in previous years with loads of boats moored up at favoured sites. At 193 years old, the Maccy is one of the youngest canals but it’s still having problems on the summit level as the water level is still a little shallow. We’ve gone past two temporary repairs; one is a broken sluice near Bridge 20 and further south there’s a collapsed culvert. I really feel for the deep drafted boats as they are struggling to move, not just because the water is down a bit, but because the silt seems to have accumulated under the bridges on this stretch.

Adelphi Mill (1851-1974), Bollington Wharf

We found space to moor beside the impressive Adelphi Mill.  For nearly 120 years fabrics were spun here, first cotton then silk and finally nylon. During WW Il the mill produced material for parachutes and also worked on classified development of materials. Our first mission was to visit Holly the Café Boat which was moored just across the canal. This cafe is run by a young couple who are liveaboards and we’ve been following them on You Tube for at least 3 years. We’ve seen them in various locations on the canals but we ‘ve never made it to the café when it’s been open. Now they are permanently moored at Bollington Wharf and we finally got to taste Vic’s freshly roasted coffee and Jo’s scrummy cakes. Both were well worth the wait and I think I’m going to have to try to make those plaited cinnamon buns myself. (Mmmmm – cinnamon)

Irresistible cinnamon buns

But it’s too dangerous (and too expensive) to stay around such delicious treats, so we made one of our epic, spur of the moment decisions and opted to continue south onto the lower section of the canal, away from the uncertainties of shallow water and busy moorings. We headed for the locks at Bosley.

Looking back up the flight-lots of water here!
Moving between the locks
Last lock for this year! (probably)

We picked a dry day, and began with a 5 mile cruise to the top of the flight that would drop us down 118 feet (36 m) towards Congleton. Fortunately for us most of the 12 locks were full, in fact they were overflowing, so we could go straight into most of them without having to fill them first. Three locks had leaky bottoms (bottom gates) that needed topping up, but despite this we made excellent progress and completed the flight in less than 2 hours. I think that’s a record for us!

Now it’s time to chill and wait for Christmas !!

Misty sunset to end the day

 

Having a swell time at sea!

Port of Southampton from our cabin

We were only supposed to do one Cruise ship cruise a year, but in January when I asked Ian what he wanted to do for his BIG birthday this year, he said without any hesitation, a transatlantic cruise to the Caribbean (I really hadn’t expected that!). So here we are just back from our second cruise of the year which had 9 sea days and 5 ports. We sailed on P&O Britannia doing a repositioning cruise from Southampton for the start of the Caribbean season. We spent the first 3 days navigating south westerly to Funchal, Madeira followed by 6 sea days heading west across the Atlantic to the Lesser Antillies islands of Antigua, St Kitts, St Lucia and finally Barbados. Everything was new for us, a new ship, all new ports and the challenge of long days at sea.

Britannia docked in St Kitts

As we headed towards Portugal it got a bit choppy, the sick bags appeared on the stairwells and there was an annoying knocking noise in the cabin. It’s a bit like travelling in a car or a van and there’s a rattle that you can’t quite work out what’s causing it. We finally discovered some spare batteries rolling around in the desk drawer as the ship rocked with a 4 metre swell and cross winds averaging 35+mph. Watching the waves was very confusing as they seemed to be going in two directions at once, the swell went one way and the surface waves were being blown another. I was definitely taking my anti-sickness meds and everyone was staggering around like drunken sailors as we walked around the ship. 

The main lake at Monte Palace gardens
One of many waterfalls in the Monte gardens

When we docked at Madeira, it was damp and rainy. Undeterred, we hopped on to terra firma and went in search of the cable car ride up to Monte and headed for the Palace gardens. Even on a dull day these were incredible with some fabulous flora and fauna framing waterfalls and sculptures. The low cloud broke every now and then giving glimpses back down the mountainside to Funchal.

Looking from Monte gardens down to Funchal (our ship in the distance)
Hitchhiker- Atlantic Booby Bird

As we left Funchal, the sea calmed, the weather gradually became warmer and sunnier, and an Atlantic Booby Bird took up residence on a forward mast. We could spot her plunge-diving for fish in the evenings, she stayed with the ship until we reached the Caribbean- what a cheeky hitchhiker. We were both surprised by how much we enjoyed the sea days. Our crossing of the Atlantic Ocean (2744 nautical miles) was incredibly smooth with only a gentle swell; we soon relaxed into a daily routine of reading, swimming and just lounging around in the sun. The crossing was nothing like what we’d expected.

Stunning sunsets over calm seas

So, it was all a bit of a shock when we finally arrived at the first caribbean port. To be honest I found it a little overwhelming. After so many years of looking at pictures of this destination, it was a bit of a “pinch me” moment to be there. We docked at St Johns in Antigua and spent a day on a beautiful beach with soft white sand and turquoise water. It was quite humid, and the air temperature was around 32 degrees Celsius so it was lovely to cool off in water that was a seductive 18-22 C (yes it was a bit like a warm bath). I was a shadow worshipper that day and felt like a living sundial as I kept turning and repositioning my sun lounger around the base of the parasol.

Jolly Beach, Antigua
Spot Ian!

Another highlight was snorkelling with the fishes near to Basseterre on St Kitts. We even caught a glimpse of a turtle passing below us, he was incredibly fast and in quite a hurry to get away from the crowds. Ian claims he saw a sting ray, but I think he was imagining it! We both saw a yellow trumpetfish (apparently quite rare) and lots of other rather colourful friends of Nemo. Sorry, there’s no pictures, I have an aversion to putting a phone or camera underwater!

Bathsheba Beach

On our final day we completed our voyage of 4499nm and arrived at the island republic of Barbados. We took a shore excursion (it was a detour to the airport!) to Bathsheba on the Atlantic coast where the coral limestone rocks create dramatic coves and rocky stacks. Along the way we found out that the traditional chalet style wooden homes were designed to be taken down in a day and moved to the next village to follow the work. After some rather steep and bouncy roads we headed for the aptly named Atlantis Historic Inn. It is one of the oldest hotels on the East Coast of the island and was only made possible by the railway line from Bridgetown that was established in 1883. It was an idyllic place for a spot of lunch with swaying coconut palms and the sound of the waves crashing on the shoreline.

View from the Atlantis Inn Bathsheba, Barbados

All too quickly (despite a flight delay of over 2 hours on the tarmac) we were back in the UK getting over our jet lag and planning our next few weeks of cruising in our narrowboat Heron. She might not be as big or as luxurious as MV Britannia, but she’s home, the shore excursions are all free and she doesn’t use as much fuel either!

You need a slightly bigger fuel boat for a cruise ship!

Nipping to North Wales

Bennar Beach Boardwalk

We’ve moored the boat up for a few weeks and followed the sun in Hollie the van for a few days of calm along the Welsh coastline. Bennar Beach Campsite is just south of Shell Island (which closed for the winter last weekend) and it’s just a short distance along a boardwalk to the sandy beach that stretches 7 miles from Barmouth to Shell Island.

Receding tide on Bennar Beach
Sunset looking towards Lleyn Peninsular

Ian’s been exploring. Somehow his walks always end up further than planned, so his 5.5 mile beach stroll to Barmouth turned into 8.5miles with the unexpected addition of roads and fields! I think the dog was as footsore as Ian was by the time they got back to the van. At lunch time they sat by the dunes watching the RNLI practising the launching and recovery of a Shannon class relief lifeboat, “John Metters”13-26.

RNLI relief boat 13-26, Barmouth Beach
Practicing the recovery of Shannon Class relief boat

The Shannon class all-weather lifeboats don’t have propellers and are powered by 650hp twin waterjets with a top speed of around 25 knots (29 mph; 46 km/h) and a range of 250 nautical miles (460 km). These boats have reinforced hulls and can be recovered from any suitable location by the boat beaching itself on to sand or a slipway. It’s then winched up on to an ingenious trailer system that’s fitted with a turntable allowing the boat to be rotated ready for an immediate relaunch.

Beachcombing on Morfa Dyffryn Beach

As some may know, I’m a bit of a beachcomber. This time I found loads of shells and a big jellyfish (yuck) but, thankfully, not a lot of rubbish this time. I’m a bit disappointed that the birdlife is a bit sparse, but perhaps that’s a reflection of the season and they’ve all flown to warmer climes as it’s a bit nippy in North Wales. I did find a WWII pillbox (DFW/3 Type 26). This square version of pillbox was intended to be used to cover river crossings or similar open viewpoints. Of the seven standard designs created in 1940, this was one of the least favoured, possibly due to its compact size (3m x 3m). I would say that it’s a testimony to the durability of the reinforced concrete that it’s in such good condition, but then again, there’s evidence that the Bedouins of southern Syria and northern Jordan were using concrete in 6500BC!

WWII Pillbox along Morfa Dyffryn Beach

You probably saw the news about the big aurora storm on the 10th of October, so you can guess where Heather was; down on the beach trying to capture that elusive incredible shot! It was an impressive storm and there were a few big puddles to find reflections in. Ian was finally convinced to get out of the nice warm van, the rays have to be visible to the naked eye before he’s interested in stepping into the cold night air (what a whimp!) as evidenced below wearing my bobble hat (it was 3 degrees celsius). (Hang on – who had a dip in the sea despite the chill October weather – Ian’s no whimp!!)

Aurora 10:10pm on 10/10/24, Bennar Beach

Getting Steamed Up at Bugsworth Basin

Clarence Mill on the Macclesfield Canal
Marple junction – turning on to the Peak Forest Canal

It already seems like a lifetime since we were driving around the North Yorkshire coast in the motorhome. We’ve spent the last few weeks back home on the boat dawdling our way up the Macclesfield Canal towards Marple. However, we did put a sudden spurt on when we noticed that the water level had dropped and heard of a leak further up. This is a summit level of just over 23 miles, so it wasn’t a little leak! You can forgive us for being slightly paranoid about getting stuck after last winter’s escapades.

Canal River Trust engineers stabilising the water level and working on the leaking sluice
Cheeky mallard

Having got past the leak we relaxed a bit and stopped on a wide reach (like a little lake) at Higher Poynton where I spotted a Kingfisher and made friends with a cheeky duck who kept flapping up into the side hatch (aka duck hatch!!).

 

 

 

Higgins Clough Swing Bridge, Disley

We trundled on through the swing bridges of the Peak Forest Canal, stopping for a few days for Ian to go on his barefoot wanders. The Millenium Walkway at New Mills is quite dramatic and was well worth the walk.

New Mills and the River Goyt
The Millennium Walkway in New Mills

Finally, we made it to our destination at Bugsworth Basin, a true favourite of ours, as it’s not every day that you get to moor up in an ancient monument! The basin was constructed at the end of the 1700s and has multiple arms that originally provided access to wharves and tramways. It was the navigable hub that linked the local quarries with the industries of the North West.

The carved out hillside of Chinley quarries above Buxsworth

Limestone for construction and architectural sculpture, gritstone for grinding and tonnes and tonnes of lime that was used everywhere, from farming to toiletries. Limestone is so versatile that I doubt the Victorian Industrial Revolution could have happened without it. Demand was high for these raw materials and in its hey day, there used to be around 160 working boats milling around the basin.

Bugsworth Basin in the 1800s
Moorings along the main arm of Bugsworth Basin

By today’s standards, I think the basin is looking busy, with about 30 boats moored up. And I’ve learnt a new word this week, Wharfinger, an archaic term for the keeper or owner of a wharf or dock. (If I’d read The Pickwick Papers by Charles Dickens, I would have known what a Wharfinger was). This person was responsible for the day-to-day activities including the maintenance and provision of the channels, docks, quaysides, slipways, berths, providing tide tables (where appropriate), resolving disputes and to warn of any latent hazards in the vicinity. Now more commonly known as … the Harbour Master. Bear in mind that during the 1800s, Bugsworth Basin was known as the largest inland port in the country.

Fodens Engine 2701, Tombola

Our arrival in this area of the High Peak coincided with the annual Buxsworth Steam Weekend. That’s not a spelling error, in 1930 the villagers, with the support of the vicar and school headmaster, campaigned to change the village name and remove any association with bugs (this vote was repeated and won again in 1999!). Despite its small size and steep roads (1 in 7 is the maximum a steam engine can manage), the village managed to squeeze 3 engines in. On closer inspection we got another surprise, Engine 2701 (aka Tombola) had originally been built by Fodens, an engineering company based in Sandbach, just down the road from the Grammar school that Ian went to (although I think the engine might be a tad older than he is! [b***** cheek!!! – Ian]).

I do love the sight, sounds and smells of these massive metal beasts. The glowing colours, the shining brass, the puffs of smoke from the chimneys, the hissing steam erupting from the valves and whistles; it’s a real treat for all the senses. As a youngster in my hometown, I would sit by my bedroom window and listen out for the toots as our local traction engines rumbled slowly past on the main road heading to the next weekend summer rally. I guess I’m just an old nostalgic at heart. [Yep – nearly as old as me! – Ian]

Enjoying the views of the Peak Forest Canal, near Disley