We Flew Heron

Two aqueducts, two tunnels. Today we flew our Heron 126 feet over the River Dee, and we passed through the underworld in “Darkie” Tunnel.

Llangollen this way
Llangollen this way

We got a reasonably early start. At first there were no other boats moving, but gradually we cam across more and more boats, all seemingly heading in the opposite direction. We passed Frankton Junction, where the Montgomery Canal meets the Llangollen. One of these days we will venture down there, its not completely restored yet but we hear that it is worth visiting.

Talking with other boaters, we heard that there was a queue at least 18 boats long trying to get down New Marton Locks last night. Think we will be stopping before them to avoid anything like that when we head back.

These are the last 2 locks for a while. The Llangollen Canal really does keep the best parts for the end.

Chirk Aqueduct
Chirk Aqueduct

First is the Chirk Aqueduct, stone built and substantial and running alongside a larger railway aqueduct. Aqueducts are always exciting for boaters. Chirk is impressive. On any other canal it would be the major feature. But on this canal it definitely takes second place to what comes up a little later. Chirk (aka Darkie) Tunnel follows immediately after the Aqueduct. After waiting for 2 boats to emerge, we made our way through. This is where you really begin to notice the water flow. Progress was very slow in the narrow confines of the tunnel. It is also one of the hardest tunnels to negotiate. I think it is the combination of narrowness, towpath and flow. We experienced this again in the shorter Whitehouses Tunnel. From here to its terminus at Llangollen, the canal gets narrower and narrower. It winds its way along the side of the valley of the River Dee. At times there is only room for a single boat to get through. As the channel passes through the village of Froncysytlle, it makes a sharp right turn heading out onto an embankment approaching the entrance to the Pontcysytlle Aqueduct. This is the first World Heritage site we have taken our boat over.

Pontcysyllte Aqueduct
Pontcysyllte Aqueduct
On the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct
On the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is constructed from cast iron troughs mounted on top of cast iron arches, supported by tall masonry pillars. It takes the canal over 126 feet above the River Dee. The view is tremendous. But steering can be fun when it is windy like today. And the flow against us made progress slow here too. So slow, in fact, that most pedestrians were overtaking us.

River Dee from above
River Dee from above
Heading into the hills
Heading into the hills

Turning left, under a bridge at Trefor, you enter a navigable feeder to reach Llangollen. This wasn’t originally meant to be used by boats. The main line was intended to carry on north from the end of the Aqueduct, but they ran out of money. The channel up to Llangollen has several narrow sections, sometimes requiring crew to walk ahead to make sure the way is clear. Despite all these challenges, it is one of the most attractive lengths of canal. There is something special about making your way into a mountainous area by canal.

We moored in the basin at the end of the navigable part of the canal and then we ventured in to the town for pizza (yum) and Pokemon Go (yawn). Pokemon Go is officially the the most effective way to see the least interesting parts of Llangollen!

Problem at Marbury Lock

Ground paddle above ground
Ground paddle above ground

We came across a significant problem at Marbury Lock today. We were making steady progress towards our goal of reaching Grindley Brook by the end of the day. But when we got to Marbury Lock we discovered the complete ground paddle, on the ground!

This made the lock a little tricky to empty. Even with both gate paddles opened the lock refused to empty completely, making it a struggle to open the bottom gates. We managed it, but only just.

Llangollen locks with by-wash
Llangollen locks with by-wash

The locks, today, have reminded us just how much fun the Llangollen can be. By fun I mean challenging. The canal is fed from the River Dee above Llangollen. A continuous flow is maintained down its complete length, allowing water from the Dee to fill a reservoir at Hurleston. This supplies water to Mid Cheshire. There is a detectable flow through bridge holes. And every lock has a fast-flowing by-wash which disgorges back into the canal, just by the bottom gates. That means that you have to be brave and use a lot of throttle to avoid being pushed sideways into the wall of the lock entrance. Heather is a master at this, showing us all how to “thread the needle” as she calls it. That’s a 15 ton needle traveling at 3 mph.

Llangollen Lift Bridge
Llangollen Lift Bridge

Pretty lift bridges are a feature of this canal. Unlike the ones on the Oxford, that we are familiar with, that use a simple chain, these ones are hydraulic.

Wrenbury
Wrenbury

We also passed through the electric operated lift bridge at Wrenbury. Of course it became rush hour as soon as we wanted to get through. We were public spirited and let the traffic through. But there is a small sense of satisfaction of legitimately stopping the traffic for our single boat, only to have another boat arrive as well. It was only a small traffic jam!

We didn’t quite make it to Grindley Brook, so the fun of the staircase locks will have to wait until morning. There are lots of other interesting things to see along this canal. Even the swans are as big as caravans.

Caravan-sized Swan
Caravan-sized Swan

 

A New Wander

We are off on a new wander. Although, this time, it is a more traditional 2 week holiday than the extended jaunt in May and June. We are off to visit one of our favourite canal destinations, Llangollen. And this will be the first time in a boat that we own (as opposed to shared ownership).

So, when the crew arrives this afternoon, we will set off from our current base at Scholar Green. Yes…I said we and mentioned crew. This time, I am not on my own. Not only is Sam the (former) roof dog along for the trip. So are Heather and Nick. It may take a little time for me to get used to having company on the boat again. But when I see how effective they are at doing all the locks and making cups of tea, I’m sure I’ll manage. (I will be paying for that comment later).

Sam may regain her roof-dog status. We will have to see how she reacts when we get under way. But with 2 other people to pester, she will probably be OK.

This afternoon we set off down the Macc, back to the T&M at Hardings Wood Junction and start down the infamous Cheshire Locks (aka Heartbreak Hill).

Right now, this is the view. Sam is very impatient for the groceries and crew to arrive.

Sam the impatient former roof-dog
Sam the impatient former roof-dog