Two aqueducts, two tunnels. Today we flew our Heron 126 feet over the River Dee, and we passed through the underworld in “Darkie” Tunnel.
We got a reasonably early start. At first there were no other boats moving, but gradually we cam across more and more boats, all seemingly heading in the opposite direction. We passed Frankton Junction, where the Montgomery Canal meets the Llangollen. One of these days we will venture down there, its not completely restored yet but we hear that it is worth visiting.
Talking with other boaters, we heard that there was a queue at least 18 boats long trying to get down New Marton Locks last night. Think we will be stopping before them to avoid anything like that when we head back.
These are the last 2 locks for a while. The Llangollen Canal really does keep the best parts for the end.
First is the Chirk Aqueduct, stone built and substantial and running alongside a larger railway aqueduct. Aqueducts are always exciting for boaters. Chirk is impressive. On any other canal it would be the major feature. But on this canal it definitely takes second place to what comes up a little later. Chirk (aka Darkie) Tunnel follows immediately after the Aqueduct. After waiting for 2 boats to emerge, we made our way through. This is where you really begin to notice the water flow. Progress was very slow in the narrow confines of the tunnel. It is also one of the hardest tunnels to negotiate. I think it is the combination of narrowness, towpath and flow. We experienced this again in the shorter Whitehouses Tunnel. From here to its terminus at Llangollen, the canal gets narrower and narrower. It winds its way along the side of the valley of the River Dee. At times there is only room for a single boat to get through. As the channel passes through the village of Froncysytlle, it makes a sharp right turn heading out onto an embankment approaching the entrance to the Pontcysytlle Aqueduct. This is the first World Heritage site we have taken our boat over.
It is constructed from cast iron troughs mounted on top of cast iron arches, supported by tall masonry pillars. It takes the canal over 126 feet above the River Dee. The view is tremendous. But steering can be fun when it is windy like today. And the flow against us made progress slow here too. So slow, in fact, that most pedestrians were overtaking us.
Turning left, under a bridge at Trefor, you enter a navigable feeder to reach Llangollen. This wasn’t originally meant to be used by boats. The main line was intended to carry on north from the end of the Aqueduct, but they ran out of money. The channel up to Llangollen has several narrow sections, sometimes requiring crew to walk ahead to make sure the way is clear. Despite all these challenges, it is one of the most attractive lengths of canal. There is something special about making your way into a mountainous area by canal.
We moored in the basin at the end of the navigable part of the canal and then we ventured in to the town for pizza (yum) and Pokemon Go (yawn). Pokemon Go is officially the the most effective way to see the least interesting parts of Llangollen!