A thoughtful time in Lechlade

Over the last few weeks we have cruised into familiar territory, very familiar to Ian and not so much to me! When we first bought this boat back in 2009 it was based in Newbury and occasionally we would have a longer cruise and head up on to the Thames and the Oxford Canal – the trouble is, we had young children so I spent most of my time in the boat whilst Ian was on the back steering and enjoying the weather! So this trip is quite an eye opener for me, especially now that we have turned right onto Duke’s Cut (named after George Spencer, 4th Duke of Marlborough, across whose land the waterway was cut) and headed upstream on the River Thames

We are definitely getting the hang of stocking up the boat and mooring in the middle of nowhere for a few days. So now, instead of taking days to get to the next interesting spot, we’re taking weeks: yes you can actually go that slow if you choose this way of life. I realise another week has gone by when the latest “Last Week Tonight” with John Oliver programme is released. Ian is doing more plane spotting with his app ” Flight Radar 24″. I think he’s really an AvGeek. I’m amazed he doesn’t fall over when we’re walking, as he sees or hears a plane and immediately starts checking out what it is and where it’s been. As we’ve got closer to RAF Brize Norton there have been some impressive flights going over our heads with A400M, C-130 Hercules, Voyager KC2/Airbus A330 and a Eurofighter Typhoon – Ian also thinks he saw a U2 spy plane heading into RAF Fairford (but as it’s a spy plane we’d better not mention it).

I’ve been spotting flying things too! Just not as exciting but still quite stunning,  Red Kites, and we think, a couple of Black Kites (quite rare), Great Egrets and Little Egrets, Shags and Common Terns (I love to watch them diving into the water) and one Kingfisher! Ian thinks he’s heard a Cuckoo but I reckon he was imagining that one. The Swifts and Swallows are a delight to watch, but the Swans have been hilarious. The river is quite deep in places so they have to really reach to get to the bottom with their legs and tails sticking up.    

Moving on to the river has been quite a challenge, it is extremely bendy in places and there’s been quite a change in the locks and the lock gear. The stop lock (only about a foot deep and created to stop water loss from one canal company to another) at Duke’s Cut had me scratching my head until I realised where you stuck the windlass (see picture).    

Now the locks have become double width and instead of using a windlass on the winding gear, it’s now a wheel for each gate paddle. The locks are supposed to be managed by lock keepers, but as with everything else, there’s a shortage so you often see the “self service” sign out. It is fascinating to talk to the lock keepers, they usually have amazing life stories. The chap at Pinkhill Lock was born in the Keeper’s House and he took over from his Dad 17 years ago. Another chap we met only started last year after spending 25 years in the Armed Forces, he’s loving being on the river and plans to stay until they carry him out in a box!    

So now we’re in Lechlade, moored on the meadow just down from the Halfpenny Bridge and it’s quite beautiful here.  But it’s proving to be a very bitter sweet experience for me. I used to work on emergency ambulances in this area and I’m struggling to see past the memories of the incidents that I attended in the town, so that I can now enjoy it as a tourist. I even remember when I worked on Patient Transport Services and this whole region was flooded in 2008, but that was just fun!   The Christmas Shop is still here- except I’m sure it’s jumped to the opposite side of the road. Santa still has a twinkle of mischief in

his eye. St Lawrence’s Church is a stunning landmark in this region and you can see it for miles. Shelley’s Walk runs through the graveyard apparently Percy Bysshe Shelley visited here in 1815 and was inspired to write this poem “A Summer Evening Churchyard”. The church itself has some fascinating aspects and is well worth a visit if you’re in the area.

If you fancy a stroll along the river, you can walk to the head of the navigable Thames. It stops just below the Round House and an old canal junction that you can glimpse through the trees to the disused Thames and Severn Canal.